Onekotan

In this article about Onekotan Island, I will tell you how to get there and how I got there. What difficulties I had on my way. I will show you the volcanoes. Yes, there are several of them here. In addition to the already famous Krenitsyn volcano, there is also Nemo volcano. I will also express my subjective opinion about the prospects for the development of the island as a popular tourist destination. Let’s get started!

How to get to Onekotan?

Just a few years ago, when some of the first good photos of the island from helicopters and drones appeared, where everyone was impressed by the Krenitsyn volcano, it was clear that this was something incredibly distant, unattainable and fantastic. However, already in 2024, even a single day rarely passes here without a group of tourists. 

The easiest way is by water from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky or Severo-Kurilsk. Finding a ship, yacht or even a boat is not difficult on the Internet. I also know people who got there from Sakhalin. It is much longer and more expensive, of course. There are also helicopter tours for 1-2 days from the same cities. Much more expensive than the ship option, and no less extreme.

My trip took place as part of a large expedition of the Russian Geographical Society, literally in transit, because my main goal was Matua Island. I will write about it in the next article. Having loaded onto the Large Landing Ship in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and having traveled several days by sea to Onekotan Island, I was one of the first in the entire group to land on the shore. My first thought: “What kind of fantasy is this! Is this not a dream?”

In addition to the topic of how to get to Onekotan, I want to add a little clarity that all this is not as simple as it may seem at first glance. Any tour will primarily depend on weather conditions. You can easily board a ship in Petropavlovsk, but in a few hours a typhoon will come and there will be no talk of landing on Onekotan. Several days and even weeks can pass like this. You will be able to observe the coast of the island practically at arm’s length, but the wind, rolling waves and rain will ruin all further plans.

By the way, a record wind for all the Kuril Islands was recorded on Onekotan — more than 230 km / h. Therefore, when going to the Kuril Islands, including Onekotan, do not forget about this nuance.

This is exactly the situation I found myself in when I first approached the island. The weather was pleasant, albeit a little cloudy. I disembarked on the shore quite calmly. But when it was time to return to the main ship, a strong wind, waves and snow-rain arose. To say that sailing a boat in complete darkness on huge icy waves is scary is to say nothing. All my clothes were soaked to the skin, I was soaked to the bones and the equipment to the last screw.

Flora and fauna of Onekotan Island.

Despite the fact that no island endemics have been discovered here yet (according to Wikipedia), this place attracts botanists from all over the country. Because this is still not a very well-studied area, but there is a lot to see. Almost the entire territory of the island is covered with dwarf pine, alder and tall grass. It can be up to 2-3 meters in height. 

By the way, there are no bears on the island, as on many northern islands of the Kuril ridge, but foxes and small rodents are present. In the water and in shallow waters you can almost always meet seals and sea lions, and in the air puffins.

Krenitsyn Volcano. It is rightfully considered the main attraction of the island. It is a volcano within a volcano. The volcano is surrounded by a lake, the water temperature of which is no more than 3-5 degrees and there is fish in it, according to some travelers. 

I don’t know how many people have visited the volcano itself before (I think only a few), but this time the participants of the RGS expedition built a raft and sailed to Krenitsyn. By the way, you can read several articles about the expedition to Onekotan on the RGS website. Here is the first one, and here is the second one.

Now it is quite easy to get to the lake and the view of the volcano. Some time ago, a convenient path was trodden from the coast and there is no need for special equipment or extremely high physical fitness. So if you are already on the island, then half the work is done on the way to the stunning view. But let’s remember about the weather, it always makes its own unpredictable adjustments!

Volcano Nemo.

This is another volcano on Onekotan Island, which is somewhat in the information shadow of its big brother, Krenitsyn. Yes, it is much more difficult to get to it, because there is no “people’s” path yet, but it is no less beautiful. If you have time, then I definitely recommend it. And in general, walking around Onekotan Island is something incredible. It’s as if you find yourself in another World, prehistoric, unknown and, I will say it again, fantastic!

Historical component of Onekotan Island. 

At the beginning of the 18th century, Russian travelers explored and documented their stay on Onekotan Island. It is mentioned that the Ainu, an ancient people of this region, already lived here. Traces of more ancient settlements have also been found. 

At the end of the 19th century, all the Kuril Islands were transferred to Japan, and after the end of World War II they were included in the USSR. For some time, border outposts existed here, traces of which can be found on the island to this day, but now it is considered uninhabited and there are no permanent residents on the island.

Tourism on Onekotan Island. 

As I mentioned at the beginning of my article about the fact that it is not so difficult to get to the island now, now tourist groups meet almost every day. Although three years ago literally a few people visited here. Is this good or bad? Of course, it is good that people can visit such unique places on our planet and see all this beauty with their own eyes. It is good that people can explore such places in our country. It is good that tourism in general is developing. 

What is not good is that people tend to leave traces of their stay. Personally, I would be very happy if this area was declared a national reserve and tourist stay on Onekotan Island was somehow regulated and controlled. Without hotels on the island, without infrastructure, but exactly in the form that we see now. Wild cool nature all around — let it stay that way!

I would also like to thank Ksenia Mikhailova and Ivan Soltan for their materials.

I recommend you watch my video reels from Onekotan Island — link to youtube.